# Filament Lab — Full Fact Digest

> Research-based, spec-first guides to 3D printers and filament, built from filament manufacturer TDS sheets and printer manufacturer published specifications. No prices, no star ratings, an honest drawback on every pick, no health claims beyond general ventilation guidance.

## Home
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/
3D Printing, Decoded. Filament Lab ranks 3D printers and filament by nozzle/bed temperature ranges per material, kinematics class, drying requirements, and realistic quality-checked print speed — not the "600mm/s" headline.

## Key Facts Reference
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/key-facts/
Maintained plain-prose reference covering material temps, drying, print-speed marketing gap, nozzle size, kinematics, enclosures, hotend ceilings, and build-volume classes.

## The 3D Printing Numbers (dataset)
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/filament-numbers/
Version 1.0, published 2026-07-30. CC BY 4.0. CSV: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/filament-numbers.csv
- PLA: nozzle 190-220°C, bed 50-60°C, no enclosure, low warping, brittle under impact, low moisture sensitivity, not food-safe as a finished print, low fumes.
- PETG: nozzle 230-250°C, bed 70-85°C, no enclosure (mild warping only), more impact-resistant than PLA, moderate-high moisture sensitivity, not food-safe, low-moderate fumes.
- ABS: nozzle 220-250°C, bed 95-110°C, enclosure strongly recommended, high warping, higher heat resistance than PLA, low-moderate moisture sensitivity, not food-safe, emits styrene — active exhaust recommended.
- ASA: nozzle 235-255°C, bed 95-110°C, enclosure strongly recommended, high warping, ABS-like strength plus UV/weathering resistance, not food-safe, similar fume profile to ABS.
- TPU (95A): nozzle 220-235°C, bed 40-60°C, no enclosure, low warping, flexible/elastomeric, moderate moisture sensitivity, not food-safe, low fumes.
- PLA+: nozzle 200-225°C, bed 50-65°C, no enclosure, low warping, better impact resistance than standard PLA, low moisture sensitivity (formulation varies by brand), not food-safe, low fumes.
- PC: nozzle 260-310°C, bed 110-140°C, enclosure required, high warping, highest impact/heat resistance here, high moisture sensitivity, not food-safe, needs strong exhaust + all-metal hotend.
- Nylon (PA): nozzle 240-270°C, bed 70-100°C, enclosure recommended, high warping, excellent impact resistance, very high moisture sensitivity (absorbs within hours), not food-safe, needs reliable ventilation for long sessions.
- Drying: PLA 40-45°C/4-6hrs; PETG 60-65°C/6-8hrs (don't exceed ~70°C); ABS/ASA 60-70°C/4-6hrs; TPU 50-60°C/6-8hrs; PC 70-80°C/8-10hrs; Nylon 75-90°C/8-12hrs.
- Speed: "600mm/s" printers realistically print quality outer walls at 100-300mm/s; "250mm/s" mid-tier bedslingers at 80-150mm/s; CoreXY holds ~20-40% higher usable quality speed than bedslingers at the same nominal ceiling.
- Nozzle sizes: 0.2mm = 0.08-0.16mm layer height, slowest, highest detail; 0.4mm (standard) = 0.12-0.32mm; 0.6mm = 0.16-0.48mm, faster; 0.8mm = 0.24-0.6mm, fastest bulk deposition. Rule: max layer height ≈ 0.75-0.8x nozzle diameter.
- Kinematics: Bedslinger (Cartesian) = lower speed (bed mass accelerates), larger footprint, cheapest/most repairable. CoreXY = higher speed (only toolhead accelerates), more compact, common in enclosed printers. Delta = fast Z-motion, tall/cylindrical volume, niche now.
- Auto-leveling types: manual 4-point knob (no sensor); inductive/mechanical deployable probe (mesh compensation); load-cell (nozzle senses contact force, no separate probe to crash, used on Prusa MK4-class); LiDAR/camera-assisted (adds print monitoring).
- Hotends: PTFE-lined safe ceiling ~240-250°C; all-metal safe ceiling ~300°C+, required for nylon/PC, needs retraction/cooling retuning after install.
- Build volume classes: Compact (≤180mm cube); Standard (~220x220x250mm, most common); Large (300mm+ per axis, harder frame rigidity at speed).

## Best First 3D Printer
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/best-first-3d-printer/
Budget band: Creality Ender 3 V3 KE, Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. Mid band: Bambu Lab A1 mini, Bambu Lab P1S, Prusa MK4, Creality K1. Premium band: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon Combo. Ranked by auto-leveling, direct drive, and kinematics class — not top-speed marketing.

## 3D Printer Upgrade Path Guide
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/3d-printer-upgrade-path-guide/
Order: textured PEI bed sheet (first upgrade) → all-metal hotend (higher-temp materials) → direct drive conversion (flexibles) → enclosure kit (ABS/ASA warping) → auto bed-leveling sensor (reliability) → active filament dry box (material quality).

## Filament Starter Kit Guide
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/filament-starter-kit-guide/
Core: PLA 1kg spool. Functional upgrade: PETG 1kg spool. Flexible: TPU 95A 1kg spool. PLA upgrade: PLA+ 1kg spool. Storage essentials: active digital filament dryer box, rechargeable indicating desiccant packs.

## PLA vs PETG: Which Should I Use?
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/pla-vs-petg-which-should-i-use/
PLA: 190-220°C/50-60°C, low warping, low moisture sensitivity, most forgiving for beginners. PETG: 230-250°C/70-85°C, more impact/heat resistance, moderate-high moisture sensitivity — needs drying sooner if left open.

## Why Does My Filament Need Drying?
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/why-does-my-filament-need-drying/
PETG, nylon, TPU, PC are hygroscopic. Wet filament causes stringing, popping/crackling, pitted/weakened layers — trapped moisture flash-boils at the nozzle. Not a health hazard. Drying temps/times per material listed above.

## What Nozzle Temp for Each Material?
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/what-nozzle-temp-for-each-material/
Nozzle/bed temps climb PLA (190-220°C) → PETG (230-250°C) → ABS/ASA (220-255°C) → Nylon (240-270°C) → PC (260-310°C, hottest, needs all-metal hotend). Brand formulation shifts temps by 15-20°C.

## Do I Need an Enclosure?
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/do-i-need-an-enclosure/
ABS, ASA, PC need an enclosure (high warping). PLA, PETG, PLA+, TPU do not. Enclosure stabilizes chamber temperature, not primarily fume safety — pair with real ventilation for fumes.

## Is "600mm/s" Real?
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/is-600mm-s-real/
Advertised top speed = firmware/motion-system ceiling, not sustained quality speed. Realistic quality-checked speed: 100-300mm/s on machines advertised at 500-600mm/s. Limited by volumetric flow rate, acceleration/jerk settings, frame rigidity, kinematics class.

## What Nozzle Size Should I Use?
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/what-nozzle-size-should-i-use/
0.4mm is the standard default (0.12-0.32mm layer height). 0.2mm for fine detail (slower, clog-prone). 0.6mm/0.8mm for large low-detail parts (faster bulk deposition). Max layer height ≈ 0.75-0.8x nozzle diameter.

## Bedslinger vs CoreXY
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/bedslinger-vs-corexy/
Bedslinger (Cartesian): lower realistic speed (bed mass accelerates), larger footprint, cheapest/most repairable. CoreXY: higher realistic speed (only toolhead accelerates), more compact, common in enclosed printers. Delta: fast Z-motion, niche now.

## First Printer: What Actually Matters
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/first-printer-what-actually-matters/
Prioritize: real mesh auto-leveling, direct drive, all-metal hotend, community support/documentation. Deprioritize: headline top speed, maximized build volume, kinematics class (for true beginners).

## How We Evaluate
Canonical: https://filament-lab.pages.dev/how-we-evaluate/
Research-based methodology from manufacturer TDS sheets and printer specs, not hands-on print-farm testing. No prices/ratings. Amazon search links only (no ASINs). Every pick names a drawback.

## Questions this site can answer
- What nozzle/bed temperature should I use for PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU, PLA+, PC, or nylon?
- Why does my PETG/nylon/TPU filament pop, string, or crackle when printing?
- What temperature and how long should I dry each filament material?
- Is a printer's advertised "600mm/s" or similar top speed a real print speed?
- What's the difference between a bedslinger and a CoreXY 3D printer?
- Do I need an enclosure for my printer, and which materials actually require one?
- What nozzle size should I use, and how does it relate to layer height?
- What actually matters when buying a first 3D printer?
- What's the difference between PLA and PETG, and which should I use?
- What's the difference between a PTFE-lined and an all-metal hotend?
- What auto-leveling types exist on 3D printers and how do they differ?
- What build-volume class fits my printing needs?